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Handling Eggs, Chicks and Birds
Collection, Handling & Care of Eggs Ostrich generally lay eggs every other day. Studies have shown that storing eggs for a period of from 7 to 10 days generally results in better hatchability and egg storage is recommended.
Eggs can be gathered daily, placed either on their side or upright, and maintained at between 65 and 70 Fahrenheit. Eggs should be turned several times a day.
Collection of eggs and proper handling is important to successful hatching. Many producers use disposable gloves to handle and gather eggs. Others use a similar idea employing disposable plastic bags while still others simply wash and clean their hands thoroughly before handling eggs.
Which ever the case, the idea is to prevent unnecessary contamination of the egg. Many products are available for cleaning and sanitizing eggs once collected.
A variety of dips, sprays, and similar products are marketed and used widely. While the use of such agents is heavily debated, should contamination problems occur, the use of cleaners and sanitation products can be effective. If dips, sprays, or washes are used, read the directions carefully and follow the recommended procedures outlined by the manufacturer.
Eggs laid in wet weather are the most likely to become contaminated. This is usually the result of soil bacteria being taken into the egg while the egg is sitting in water or mud.
Occasionally, reproductive tract infections in the hen can also result in bacterial contamination of the egg. A complete bacteriological examination by a veterinary diagnostic laboratory can provide insight into these problems and is strongly recommended when an abnormally large number of eggs are contaminated.
Many new products which sterilize the egg shell, the air or the working area in the incubator room now available to producers. These products all have merit when attempting to correct a diagnosed contamination problem. The use of these products as a means of preventing potential contamination can be considered in any operation's biosecurity plan.
Handling and Transporting Young Chicks Young birds up to two months of age can generally be picked up while supporting the chest with one hand and placing the other hand on the back, leaving the feet to dangle below.
This age bird can also be easily handled and transported by wrapping them in a large towel. The wrapped bird can often be handled for various treatment purposes and transportation more safely than allowing it to try to stand and walk in a moving vehicle.
Juvenile birds (4 to 8 months) are generally too large to pick up but can be walked and guided by one person by grasping the tail with one hand a wing with the other. Do not lift the birds by the wings, however.
More effectively, two people can maneuverer this size bird by one person getting behind the bird and lifting on the rump while holding the wing(s) while the other holds the neck and/or beak and directs the bird from the front. Adult birds can also be moved this way, once hooded, and generally require little more effort than the juvenile bird.
Care of Newly Hatched Chicks Eggs should be allowed to hatch on their own or help should be given only under duress and the help should be minimal. What ever the circumstances, it is important to allow the chicks to exit the shell on their own.
At the time of internal pipping, the bird has not yet internalized all of the yolk material and the blood vessels that are attached to the inside membranes of the shell have not dried up sufficiently to allow the bird to hatch normally.
The final process of exiting the shell may take many hours to several days, depending on the vigor of the bird. It may be necessary to remove pieces of sharp shell or to remove dried membranes to assist the chick in this process.
Birds taken out of the shell prematurely often have incompletely internalized yolk sacs and are often subject to umbilical and yolk sac infections. Once the bird has completely exited the shell, treat the umbilical area with liberal amounts of 7% Iodine. This will help disinfect the area, prevent bleeding, and minimise bacterial contamination.
Care after Hatching - Brooding of Newly Hatched Chicks The newly hatched chicks can be placed into a brooder as soon as they are dry or as soon as several birds in any batch have hatched and are ready to be removed from the hatcher.
The brooder may be kept in the same room as the hatcher. Numbered leg bands are placed on the birds and they are weighed at the time they are placed into the brooder.
A good serving of probiotics and Microbials should be fed to the chick immediately to encourage good strong growth.
Food may be delayed until the chicks are 6 to 8 days of age. This allows the birds to absorb any fluid that is in the tissues and requires that the bird begin to utilize the yolk material. Birds that have excessive water in the tissues ("wet chicks") are held for longer periods without food or water.
Chicks have been kept up to 10 days with no notable problems. All birds are taken out and placed on grass or dirt, as soon as weather permits to further stimulate water absorption and to encourage activity.
Often wet chicks have difficulty placing their legs under them at this stage and a condition called "straddle leg" develops. Most birds can be treated by hobbling the legs together in a normal position with tape, tubing, or Vetrap until the chick is able to stand on its own (usually one to two days).
Treatment is almost always successful if the condition is detected early. Care must be taken when hobbling birds in the brooder as they may turn onto their back and will be unable to right themselves.
Brooder boxes can be constructed of stainless steel so that it can be sanitized easily. It is 4 feet long, 2 1/2 feet wide, with 3 foot sides. The temperature in the hatching - brooder room is 75-78 Fahrenheit. Additional heat is provided for the brooded chicks with a single heat lamp directed in one corner of the brooder box.
A washable mat is used on the floor of the brooder. This type of flooring is ideal since it is easily cleaned, can't be eaten, and provides support for the chicks during the first few days while still allowing a clean dry surface.
One week through One Month After the chicks are removed from the brooder, they are placed on grass in a portable pen for as long as weather permits. The grass in the pen area is cut short and the pen is moved daily. Birds are brought back indoors nightly and maintained as described for brooding during the first week. Only water is provided at night.
Before birds are placed out in the morning, feed is provided for a one hour period. Birds are then placed in the portable pen. Supplemental feeding of cut alfalfa or clover is provided several times daily. Birds are provided pelleted feed 3 times per day for 1 hour time periods.
The availability of pelleted food is limited for this age bird because we feel it helps to stimulate the use of the yolk material by the birds and reduces the incidence of bacterial enteritis that often results from continuous feeding.
Using this feeding schedule, birds loose about 0.25 to 0.50 pounds of their hatching weight during the first week, then they return to or slightly exceed their hatching weight by the second week, gain about 0.50 pound by the third week and double their birth weight by one month.
After this, gains of nearly 0.5 pounds per day are not uncommon with a 3 month old bird weighing 30 pounds.
Collection, Handling & Care of Eggs Ostrich generally lay eggs every other day. Studies have shown that storing eggs for a period of from 7 to 10 days generally results in better hatchability and egg storage is recommended.
Eggs can be gathered daily, placed either on their side or upright, and maintained at between 65 and 70 Fahrenheit. Eggs should be turned several times a day.
Collection of eggs and proper handling is important to successful hatching. Many producers use disposable gloves to handle and gather eggs. Others use a similar idea employing disposable plastic bags while still others simply wash and clean their hands thoroughly before handling eggs.
Which ever the case, the idea is to prevent unnecessary contamination of the egg. Many products are available for cleaning and sanitizing eggs once collected.
A variety of dips, sprays, and similar products are marketed and used widely. While the use of such agents is heavily debated, should contamination problems occur, the use of cleaners and sanitation products can be effective. If dips, sprays, or washes are used, read the directions carefully and follow the recommended procedures outlined by the manufacturer.
Eggs laid in wet weather are the most likely to become contaminated. This is usually the result of soil bacteria being taken into the egg while the egg is sitting in water or mud.
Occasionally, reproductive tract infections in the hen can also result in bacterial contamination of the egg. A complete bacteriological examination by a veterinary diagnostic laboratory can provide insight into these problems and is strongly recommended when an abnormally large number of eggs are contaminated.
Many new products which sterilize the egg shell, the air or the working area in the incubator room now available to producers. These products all have merit when attempting to correct a diagnosed contamination problem. The use of these products as a means of preventing potential contamination can be considered in any operation's biosecurity plan.
Handling and Transporting Young Chicks Young birds up to two months of age can generally be picked up while supporting the chest with one hand and placing the other hand on the back, leaving the feet to dangle below.
This age bird can also be easily handled and transported by wrapping them in a large towel. The wrapped bird can often be handled for various treatment purposes and transportation more safely than allowing it to try to stand and walk in a moving vehicle.
Juvenile birds (4 to 8 months) are generally too large to pick up but can be walked and guided by one person by grasping the tail with one hand a wing with the other. Do not lift the birds by the wings, however.
More effectively, two people can maneuverer this size bird by one person getting behind the bird and lifting on the rump while holding the wing(s) while the other holds the neck and/or beak and directs the bird from the front. Adult birds can also be moved this way, once hooded, and generally require little more effort than the juvenile bird.
Care of Newly Hatched Chicks Eggs should be allowed to hatch on their own or help should be given only under duress and the help should be minimal. What ever the circumstances, it is important to allow the chicks to exit the shell on their own.
At the time of internal pipping, the bird has not yet internalized all of the yolk material and the blood vessels that are attached to the inside membranes of the shell have not dried up sufficiently to allow the bird to hatch normally.
The final process of exiting the shell may take many hours to several days, depending on the vigor of the bird. It may be necessary to remove pieces of sharp shell or to remove dried membranes to assist the chick in this process.
Birds taken out of the shell prematurely often have incompletely internalized yolk sacs and are often subject to umbilical and yolk sac infections. Once the bird has completely exited the shell, treat the umbilical area with liberal amounts of 7% Iodine. This will help disinfect the area, prevent bleeding, and minimise bacterial contamination.
Care after Hatching - Brooding of Newly Hatched Chicks The newly hatched chicks can be placed into a brooder as soon as they are dry or as soon as several birds in any batch have hatched and are ready to be removed from the hatcher.
The brooder may be kept in the same room as the hatcher. Numbered leg bands are placed on the birds and they are weighed at the time they are placed into the brooder.
A good serving of probiotics and Microbials should be fed to the chick immediately to encourage good strong growth.
Food may be delayed until the chicks are 6 to 8 days of age. This allows the birds to absorb any fluid that is in the tissues and requires that the bird begin to utilize the yolk material. Birds that have excessive water in the tissues ("wet chicks") are held for longer periods without food or water.
Chicks have been kept up to 10 days with no notable problems. All birds are taken out and placed on grass or dirt, as soon as weather permits to further stimulate water absorption and to encourage activity.
Often wet chicks have difficulty placing their legs under them at this stage and a condition called "straddle leg" develops. Most birds can be treated by hobbling the legs together in a normal position with tape, tubing, or Vetrap until the chick is able to stand on its own (usually one to two days).
Treatment is almost always successful if the condition is detected early. Care must be taken when hobbling birds in the brooder as they may turn onto their back and will be unable to right themselves.
Brooder boxes can be constructed of stainless steel so that it can be sanitized easily. It is 4 feet long, 2 1/2 feet wide, with 3 foot sides. The temperature in the hatching - brooder room is 75-78 Fahrenheit. Additional heat is provided for the brooded chicks with a single heat lamp directed in one corner of the brooder box.
A washable mat is used on the floor of the brooder. This type of flooring is ideal since it is easily cleaned, can't be eaten, and provides support for the chicks during the first few days while still allowing a clean dry surface.
One week through One Month After the chicks are removed from the brooder, they are placed on grass in a portable pen for as long as weather permits. The grass in the pen area is cut short and the pen is moved daily. Birds are brought back indoors nightly and maintained as described for brooding during the first week. Only water is provided at night.
Before birds are placed out in the morning, feed is provided for a one hour period. Birds are then placed in the portable pen. Supplemental feeding of cut alfalfa or clover is provided several times daily. Birds are provided pelleted feed 3 times per day for 1 hour time periods.
The availability of pelleted food is limited for this age bird because we feel it helps to stimulate the use of the yolk material by the birds and reduces the incidence of bacterial enteritis that often results from continuous feeding.
Using this feeding schedule, birds loose about 0.25 to 0.50 pounds of their hatching weight during the first week, then they return to or slightly exceed their hatching weight by the second week, gain about 0.50 pound by the third week and double their birth weight by one month.
After this, gains of nearly 0.5 pounds per day are not uncommon with a 3 month old bird weighing 30 pounds.